A no-stress, 20-minute guide to mounting the 48 V Li7 pack — slide, latch, ride.
There's something satisfying about the moment your battery clicks into place and the range indicator lights up. The Li7 holder was designed for exactly that feeling: a clean rail-and-clamp system that bolts to your frame once, then lets you slide the 48 V, 672 Wh pack on and off in seconds. No tools at the trailhead, no wrestling with wiring.
If you're fitting the holder for the first time, this guide walks you through the whole job. It takes about twenty minutes, needs only a couple of hex keys and a torque wrench, and the hardest part is measuring one number correctly. Let's get into it.
The whole system hinges on one measurement: 60 mm between the clamp holes. Get that right and everything else just falls into place.
Before you start: what's in the box
Your kit includes the Li7 battery holder (P/N 501976) — that's the rail, the head casting with the key lock, and a 458 mm pigtail lead already attached. You'll also have two battery holder clamps, two M8-to-M5 threaded inserts, and two M5 countersunk screws. The Li7 pack itself (P/N 501574) weighs 3.5 kg, so it has a reassuring heft to it.
From the toolbox you'll want hex keys to fit the M5 screws and clamp bolts, a calibrated torque wrench, and a steel rule or calipers. That's genuinely all.
A quick word on safety
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Keep the battery switched OFF and off the holder while you do the mounting work.
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Don't plug the 2-pin lead in until the holder is fully bolted down and torqued.
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Mind the polarity when you connect: RED is positive, BLACK is negative. Reversing them will damage the controller.
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The pack weighs 3.5 kg — support its full weight as you slide it on.
Step 1 — Bolt the clamps to your frame
Pick your spot. The clamps can go on the top tube or the lower tube, wherever suits your frame and riding style. Sit both clamps on the tube with their flange faces lined up and pointing the same way.
Now the one number that matters: set the clamp mounting-hole centers exactly 60 mm apart. Measure it with your rule or calipers — this spacing matches the two holes in the holder rail, and getting it right is what makes the pack latch smoothly later. Drop an M8-to-M5 threaded insert into each clamp flange, then nip the clamps up just hand-tight for now so you can still nudge them into alignment.
When everything lines up in Step 2, you'll torque the clamp bolts to 11.8 N·m.
The two clamps, threaded inserts, and the fasteners that hold everything to the frame.
If the holder later rocks or a screw won't start, don't force it — 90% of the time the fix is re-checking that 60 mm gap.
Step 2 — Drop the holder onto the clamps
Take out the M5 screws that came pre-fitted in the clamps. Offer the holder up with the head casting — the lock end — toward the rear of the tube, and route the pigtail toward your motor connector. Line the two rail holes up with the clamp inserts; the rail should sit dead flat on both faces, with no gap and no twist.
Start both M5 countersunk screws by hand so you don't cross-thread them, then torque them to 6.1 N·m, alternating side to side so the rail seats evenly. If the rail rocks or the second screw won't catch, that's your cue to re-check the 60 mm spacing rather than muscle it.
Holder seated flat on the clamps, pigtail routed toward the motor connector.
Step 3 — Slide on the battery and ride
This is the part you'll do every day, and it's genuinely a four-move routine:
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Slide on. Line the pack's channel up with the rail at the open end and slide it on in one smooth movement, taking the full 3.5 kg.
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Latch. Push it home until it seats against the head casting and the key lock engages. Turn the key to lock, then take it out.
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Connect. Mate the holder's 2-pin connector to the motor harness — red to positive, black to negative.
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Check. Give the pack a firm tug: it shouldn't move fore or aft. Switch on and confirm the charge indicator reads correctly.
One last thing worth thirty seconds: tidy the pigtail. Route it so it can't get pinched by the clamp, rubbed against the tube, snagged by your suspension, or yanked when you pull the pack. A couple of cable ties, kept clear of anything that moves, and you're done.
Assembly reference — the pack slides on from the open end, head casting and key lock at the rear.
That's it — you're rolling
Once it's set up, swapping batteries becomes a five-second habit: slide, latch, connect, go. Charge a spare pack and you can keep riding all day. If anything ever feels off — the pack won't slide freely, or a screw won't seat — come back to that one golden rule and check your 60 mm. It solves almost everything.
Enjoy the ride. Li7 battery holder P/N 501976 · Li7 pack P/N 501574 · 48 V, 672 Wh, 14 Ah · Falco eMotors